DIY: Ford Escape Rear Camber Arms Install

Our customer, Dean, created a write up on his install of the Godspeed AK-127 Rear Camber Arms on his 2017 Ford Escape SE. We hope this helps anyone who is interested in how the install goes.

Installed the Godspeed AK-127  upper camber arms on my 2017 Ford Escape SE

First off, You must buy a high quality T60 Torx bit on a 1/2” drive socket and get creative on using it to remove the inner bolts, The access to those bolts are very limited in tight quarters but doable. The nut is welded onto the frame so no need to hang onto it. I ended up using a 1/2” swivel and a 3” extension on the drivers side just to loosen it up, then used a pair of Visegrips on the T60 bit to finish removal because the fuel tank would interfere with using the extension. On the passenger side I was limited to only using the Visegrips, I’m sure there’s a factory tool but I used what I had. The fuel tank is close so be careful as to not use it for leverage. The bolt at the knuckle is a 15mm, piece of cake there.

Once the stock camber arm is out, measure the distance between the bushings any way you like and statically set the same distance on the Godspeed arms, both of them. Bury both the  boss into the arm and the rod end into the boss and turn the boss outward to desired length while holding the rod end static, refer to the pics, you will see that equal amounts of the male thread are exposed, this ensures there is still enough thread buried in the boss and the arm and does not compromise the overall strength.
Hand tighten the nuts, RH threads on the boss, LH threads on the rod end and double check your distance.Install was simple, I found it easier to bolt the inside section first (T60 bolt) then the knuckle end, I used the jack under the knuckle to raise/lower to align the holes for the 15mm bolt.

Access to the 1-1/8” adjustment nut and the 1-1/8” lock nuts are limited too, use a short or cut open end wrench for those.

I personally kept the stock length between the bushings in the Godspeed arms because I previously lowered the rear about 3” and that automatically gave me 3 degrees of negative camber which is ideal for my setup.

You can very easily adjust the camber via the center nut, which is the boss of the unit.

BTW I always put generous amounts of Antiseize or Neverseize (same thing) on the male threads of the arm parts and the OEM bolts.

On the difficulty scale I give the removal of the T60 an 8 out of 10 and the rest of the setup install a 4.

Hope this helps someone out, please seek professional assistance if you don’t completely understand this write up and don’t forget Safety First.

Thanks for the writeup Dean!

To check out this product, please click here: Godspeed Camber Kit Ford Escape & CMAX [Rear] (2013-2017) AK-127

You may also like

1 Comment

  1. Thanks Dean, For the heads up on the T60 male torx socket. I have a 2013 Ford escape AWD 2.0 Eco boost. Forget using a normal T60 male Torx socket. Save yourself a half a day of frustration. Get a T60 stubby socket or a set for about $30.00. They are made for tight space conditions or very limited space. they are 1/2 ” drive. I was able to get the passanger side , that took 2hrs,, But i did complete it. Not able to do on the rear Drivers side. Had to wait two days to get the stubby Torx set. size T50 to 100. Fords are very poorly designed for any car Hobbist or home machanic. Get the right tool for the right job. GOOD LUCK ON THAT PROJECT> John M.

Leave a Reply

More in Ford